Alpe d'Huez Activity Review: 3rd September 2009
With both resorts now officially closed for the Autumn, us locals were hoping for a little peace and quiet. But while the weather remains warm, the workmen are out in force to get both towns ready for winter. In Les Deux Alpes, the pavement improvement scheme continues as the yellow bricks on the eastern side of Avenue de la Muzelle are replaced with new walkways. This should make a huge difference come winter, as the yellow pavements were notoriously slippery, especially in the snow.
Work also continues on various apartment buildings, with balconies and wooden facades being replaced in line with the change to local planning regulations that dictate all buildings must have the same, light-coloured wood. In Alpe d’Huez work continues on the new apartment building being constructed opposite the O-Bar and on the replacement for the Marmotte Telecabine, which was dismantled in the Spring.
Only the non-tourist shops and services are open at this time of year, and they revert to the inter-season schedule which is more typical of regular French towns. Lunchtime closures take a while to get used to, and you’ll typically find hungry and baffled people who have forgotten about the change in opening hours outside the closed supermarkets. The banks too change their hours, and my local branch of the Banque de Rhone Alpes is closed for refurbishment until the end of the month! It must all be pretty confusing for the few remaining tourists who are surrounded by closed shops and workmen, while other local towns continue to function normally.
Earlier in the week we set-off out towards Voiron, for a picnic hosted by Chartreuse at the Lac de Paladru. This bi-annual event is hosted by the promoters of local liquor Chartreuse, which is made by monks in the local area. Bar owners from Grenoble are invited to stock-up on branded t-shirts and hats, while sampling cocktails, coffees and straight shots of the infamous yellow or green alcohol. The lake is surrounded by small campsites and – at just a ninety-minute drive from the mountains – is a great place to swim and sail.
The weather here remains warm but we’ve seen a few cloudy days recently. The average temperature in both resorts is still up in the mid-twenties during the day and at night falls to around 10°C. The forecast suggests rain tomorrow, followed by sun into next week with winds increasing slightly and temperatures falling to around 10°C-16°C. As long as it remains dry, there should be some great weather for hiking the longer routes, which are simply hot to attempt mid-summer.
The freeze level on Les Deux Alpes’ glacier remains high, at between 3,600m and 4,100m, though we’re due to see it fall a bit over the next week as the summer sun starts to lose it’s strength. The base is all-but gone now, however Mother Natures’ indications so far are for heavy snow this winter. The berries are already out in force, both bigger and earlier than last year, which certainly bodes well.
With the lifts closed, I’ve been making the most of the quieter trails on the shorter walks in both resorts. In Alpe d’Huez, a favourite is the path from Huez to the base of the Sarenne piste. It’s about a ninety-minute round trip and there is a winding route next to the river for the more adventurous. However, I did get a little carried-away on Tuesday and followed the narrow route too far from the path, scrambling back up a scree slope much to the amusement of some fellow walkers!
In Les Deux Alpes, I’ve been back down towards Molliere, Bons and Cuculet, and over to the Edge of the World and the finish point of Venosc’s via ferrata. Again, most of the routes take around one to two hours, depending on the steepness of the paths. I’m trying to get as much walking done as possible before the first snow, and we’re planning some longer hikes next week. Last year, our first snowfall was in the early hours of 4th October. It was just a dusting, but serves as a reminder that we must appreciate the green grass and turning leaves before we’re covered once again in a blanket of white.
