Alpe d'Huez Apres Ski Report: 24th December 2009

While I'm sure the idyllic picture Major Henry Livingston Jr.'s paints isn't far from the truth in many households this Christmas, I think he'd be shocked by the debauchery that accompanies the start of the festive season here in Alpe d'Huez. More about that later...

It's been a busy week in the Southern Alps and I've been backwards and forwards between Alpe d'Huez and Les Deux Alpes. Last Friday a few of us piled into the car and braved the snowy roads for a night out across the valley. I spent the early evening catching up with old friends at Smokey Joe's and the Polar Bear, before eating at Hotel La Meije. The independently British run hotel has opened it's restaurant to the public this year, providing a seasonal, wholesome menu. Chef Softy's confit de canard has already gained an awesome reputation in town and I can highly recommend the roasted red pepper stuffed with goats' cheese risotto. The service from waitress Jess was great and the atmosphere calm, if a little quiet for this time of year. After dinner it was the usual route of Smithy's Tavern followed by the infamous Avalanche. Though just for one night, it was good to be home!

On Sunday night, Lounge 21's Madeleine and Zoo Bar's Niff celebrated the return to resort of notorious ex-seasonnaires Alex and Nick. Starting at the Underground the boys set a steady pace with demis before heading for dinner. We ate a fantastic meal at Le P'tit Creux which included foie gras souflée and bull's ribs. The quality of food and service at this exclusive restaurant is consistently excellent and well worth the price tag (40€ for the ribs) on a special occasion. We then hauled ourselves up the hill to the Sphere Bar to see local covers band Still Nameless (previously known as John, Jez and Morse) rock-out their latest set, including a great and grimey cover of the UK's Christmas Number One, Killing In The Name. After a hot and sweaty gig, which was well attended by seasonnaires and holidaymakers, I made a dash for home as I wanted to catch first lifts early the next morning. I hear the evening continued long into the night, finishing at Igloo.

So, back to Christmas Eve... Christmas in the alps tends to be a much bigger and better event than New Year. The French celebrate on Christmas Eve and most seasonnaires and holidaymakers find it hard not to follow suit. In anticipation of a massive night most of the bars have DJs or bands booked, but in typical peak-season nobody is quite sure exactly what's going on. The best tip I can give you for tonight is to wander around the bars and see what's happening, it's going to be an awesome night so you can't go too far wrong wherever you end up. The other tip I would give is to keep it in perspective as celebrating Christmas Eve excuse you from celebrating Christmas Day too.

The British bars in town have set-menus available for the 25th and all include traditional roast turkey. The French, of course, get to stay in bed while the Brits trawl the mountain in Santa hats and silly-string. For those who still regard Christmas as a religious rather than alcohol-based festival, the local church is holding Catholic Mass at 9pm on Christmas Eve and 6pm on Christmas Day. Worshippers of all faiths are welcome, although the service will be in French.

So, with all that in mind, I have a busy evening ahead as there's also a bit of a competition amongst the girls in town to rock-out your best dress tonight. So, I wish you a very merry, white Christmas.

For a full list of this week's events, check out our What's On Calendar. You can also find full Bar and Restaurant listings in the Dining and Going Out section of the site.