Alpe d'Huez Apres Ski Report: 15th April 2010
Though we're nearing the end of the season, the weather in Alpe d'Huez remains pretty unstable. Usually at this time of year, my Après Reports turn to sunny lunches on the mountain and post-piste drinks at the edge of resort but with late snow storms every few days, lunch has now become an excuse to shelter indoors and dream of warmer weather.
In the past week I've been hiding out in old favourites the O-Bar and Café Agua. I'm a huge fan of Vito's homemade hummus and the laid-back atmosphere in the O-Bar. But with the bad weather lunches have been pretty busy with dozens of their celebrated burgers appearing from the tiny kitchen.
On really gloomy days there's nowhere better in Alpe d'Huez than Café Agua. Located at the outdoor swimming pool, the Piscine on the Avenue des Jeux, the café has free wifi, big bright windows and a heating system that would have made the Romans proud. It's certainly the toastiest place in town and their huge salads, burgers, yummy chips and chocolate-covered dougnuts brighten the darkest day.
This week I also had lunch at the Caribou for the first time. Some of my friends swear by this bar/restaurant for their free wifi, which is rapidly becoming essential for seasonaires and holidaymakers alike. I'd also heard good things about their lunch menu and wasn't disappointed by the selection of tartines, pasta, salads and plat du jour all for around 10€.
The day I ate here we were the only customers, probably due to a late blooming bluebird day drawing everyone lelse onto the mountain. Despite being empty, the restaurant had a friendly atmosphere. The newly decorated chalet looks traditional on the outside but is modern and minimalist on the inside. The terrace is apparently a real suntrap and sheltered from the odd wind that blows through resort. There are rooms above the public areas, making this possibly the funkiest little hotel in town.
The dodgy weather hasn't had too much effect on the late-night party scene, with the ever popular Smithy's Tavern still rammed from midnight until 1.30am when everyone moves downstairs to either l'Igloo or Caves. If you fancy something a little more authentically French, then Zoo Bar, Freeride and Snow Bar all have a slightly crazy party-atmosphere until late into the night.
BUSC may be over but it's still Easter and the students just keep on coming. Students from Bournemouth University transformed the craic in Irish bar O'Sharkeys. Normally the haunt of a slightly older crowd and those seeking an authentic Irish pint, O'Sharkeys was transformed last week into a full-on party bar by tracksuit-clad students on a chav-themed fancy dress night. Their sequinned caps and colour co-ordinated outfits drew more than a few envious looks from seasonaires who've struggled with this particular theme over the winter. Next December I think we'll see a surge in the sales of Rockport caps as returning seasonaires do their fancy dress shopping early!
This week Alpe d'Huez is hosting 900 French university students who are hitting the mountain and the bars as only students can. You'll spot them out and about around resort in their long grey coats, embellished with logos, badges and artwork. They've been big fans of Smithy's Tavern and with another group due in resort next week, it looks like the season will end on a high.
If you want to escape the mayhem, then you can relax with a cocktail in Lounge21 or join the bourgeois French crowd at The Sporting. Most restaurants – such as the Dahu Grill – stay open late for diners so sometimes the best end to the evening is to kick back from your table and enjoy a taste of the local digestifs: Genepi and Chartreuse.
For a full list of this week's events, check out our What's On Calendar. You can also find full Bar and Restaurant listings in the Dining and Going Out section of the site.
